Monday, November 5, 2018

Pompeii

I had heard mixed reviews of Naples, so didn't feel bad that our excursion took us straight from the port to Pompeii and skipped Naples altogether.  Our first plan was a combined Mount Vesuvius hike and Pompeii excavations guided tour.  A few months after booking that I got an email that it was cancelled.  Many of the excursions run seasonally and November 1st seemed to be the cut-off for many of them.  I'm guessing that was the case here.  We found a shorter tour that was just the excavations portion.  That ended up being a good fit since we were already more than a week into our trip and because we had a lot of walking ahead of us in Rome.  But it was also overcast and drizzling the day we were there and Vesuvius view wouldn't be that amazing.    

I thought I had a good idea of what to expect from Pompeii based on the reading I had done and photos.   I knew, for example, not to expect any people lying in the ruins.  And I knew that it was a huge area.   But I was expecting it still to look desolate - sort of a stone and rubble lot with some remaining ash and rocks.   So imagine my surprise when we approached the entrance and were walking on a path flanked but tall pine trees and grassy areas.  The smell was amazing.   I don't know why I had never considered that the trees and nature would grow back in 2,000 years!  




Again this was a place you could surely wander around on  your own but to do it justice you needed a tour guide or an audio guide since there are not placards or signs explaining what you're seeing.   Two things I learned on this tour were that the casting that we see aren't casts over the preserved bodies of the people and animals.  Those did decompose.  Instead the ground was so steady that they acted like molds that held the shape of where the people or animals had rested.  Maybe everyone else already knew that.....The other shocking fact our tour guide casually shared was that tomatoes were not native to Italy!  Christopher Columbus brought them back from the New World.  Mind blown!









Of course the tour guides of today are pseudo audio guides.  Since there are so many tour groups, the leaders use a microphone system where everyone listens to their live commentary on a receiver with an ear piece.  We quickly learned (but failed to remedy) that William's little ears don't hold the cheap hard plastic earphone well, so he never used his audio guide.  We just encouraged him to stand up next to the tour guide in order to hear his or her actual voice. That usually worked fine.  Of course I did have to remind myself a few times that he is a 9 year old on a two week tour of antiquities and if he just wants to hide in the trees or chase birds or lizards once in awhile that he can do that, too, and it's ok if he's not getting every second of the official tour.   




After leaving the ruins, we went to a limoncello store where we sampled and bought up a bunch of different flavors.  I need to crack open my chocolate limoncello someday soon!

Sunday, November 4, 2018

Santorini

Santorini was the only port where I didn't have an excursion planned.  When I was first looking there was one I liked but I couldn't get four spots.   One of my co-workers went there on her honeymoon around this same time last year, so I used her great advice about what to do.  And we stumbled across a few other great experiences.   It ended up being the one spot where all of us would want to return to stay on the island.   William, too, but John and I think our next Santorini stop should be adults only to fully enjoy the wine and fine dining.

The current island(s) of Santorini in its crescent shape was created after a volcano erupted.   The cruise ship docked at Fira, the main city at the top of the mountain, which is accessible via cable car, donkey ride or a 30 minute walk up the donkey path.   We opted for the cable car and were in the main shopping zone in a matter of minutes.





After peeking in all of the shops up and down the street (and probably eating some gelato, I mean that was our multi-daily thing), we talked to a guy who offered shuttle van service over to Oia, the iconic white cliff side buildings that you've definitely seen if you've seen a picture of Santorini.  This ended up being a great deal, because he took us to a scenic overlook for photos (and took the photos so we are all in them) and then dropped us of at the center of Oia to look around, shop, and eat before he picked us up again in an hour.  While I had envisioned a leisurely lunch of Greek salad, cheeses, bread and wine, we used up all of our time taking pictures and looking at shops.  So, we had a very quick lunch of a shared pizza  and local beers.   The leisurely lunch is why I want to go back now!








We were the only cruise ship in port that day, so it wasn't quite as packed as it would have been in the heat of the tourist season.  In fact, we were the last cruise ship of the season so the shops were discounting a lot of the merchandise.  However, when it was time to go back down to the boat, the line for the cable car was blocks long.   I'd read on several travel sites to expect that so I wasn't shocked.  My plan was for us to walk down the donkey path, which I read only took about 20 minutes.   I under-estimated how strenuous a steep downhill walk was on my quads.  My legs were on fire when we got to the end from trying to control my descent.  Oh, and the bricks/stones were very slippery....because it's a path shared with donkeys who pee and poop as they walk up and down it all day!  I saw several people slip and fall (or the after effects of it) but luckily none of them were covered in poop!  William really wanted to ride a donkey, so John decided to join him for the ride down.  They actually shared a single donkey so I was able to get some good glimpses of them when I was in front or behind of them.   My dad and I walked and enjoyed collected our Fitbit steps!


Santorini is known for their beautiful sunsets - especially in Oia since it's on the western tip of the crescent.  We were able to enjoy the sunset from the deck during the sail away.  I hope we find our way back there sometime soon!


Friday, November 2, 2018

Athens

Athens is the place I was expecting William to love the most because of all of the mythology that he has read.  I thought it was the place I would love the best because it was really the seat of civilization (although that could be said for the Venice-Athens-Rome combo).   It was definitely amazing but it was also exhausting.  Our tour was 8 hours.  I was shocked how spread out everything was, so I was very glad to be on an organized tour.   We definitely could not have done it all on our own with that traffic.   Our first stop (after a 30 minute?  45 minute? drive) was the Acropolis.   More slippery cobblestones to traverse!   We were rewarded with the Parthenon and thousands of our closest friends!  The views from the Acropolis were amazing; I felt like we could see the world from up there!  My dad was amazed at the still ongoing restoration efforts; I think he's going to give us an update on the history and techniques of marble carving at our next get together.

 


 





 

 
 







 After the obligatory souvenir stop, we went to a family style lunch where there flooded our tables with SO. MUCH. FOOD.  And it was all amazing.  I could have just eaten the rustic grilled bread, feta cheese, yogurt sauce, Greek salad and the wine and been done.   But there were also overflowing plates of lamb burgers, lamb chops, grilled chicken, French fries, fried zucchini, and I'm sure more that I am forgetting because I didn't get my camera out.

We all dozed as we drove from there to the seaside to tour Poseidon's Temple.  After reading all of the Percy Jackson and the Olympians series together, Poseidon is one of our favorite Greek gods.  The view from the top of the hill was breathtaking.   I would love to go to one of the seaside resorts when I could get in the sea and enjoy the sunshine and warm waters of the Aegean!









So a little picture overload there but I really wanted to remember all of it!   Back on the boat we celebrated my parents' wedding anniversary at dinner.  Pretty sure William and I ate most of the cake!